Everything old is new again.
As WWD reports, that adage describes Tommy Hilfiger’s cool spring collection, just shown at New York Fashion Week, where the designer mined his rich archives to reimagine many of his most-famous hits from the 1990s with a contemporary flair.
“We’re making the classics more modern and more relevant for today,” the designer said during a preview at his New York headquarters. “We’ve taken our heritage pieces from the archive, and we’ve decided to give them a new beginning, a new life. Proportion-wise, it’s different, fabric-wise, it’s different, but the concept is the same.”
With preppy and Americana ruling the zeitgeist, it was easy for Hilfiger to find inspiration, but rather than just reissuing the tried-and-true, he turned the familiar on its head, a skill that will undoubtedly attract the new generation. While the red, white and blue palette remained, everything else changed dramatically to reflect the new cool prep look through unexpected, more relaxed proportions. To update the look, the designer added vibrant shades of yellow and green.
Denim and varsity jackets were shrunken; shorts became micro versions of the originals — cropped short and cut extra baggy for both genders; polos were oversize, and rugbys were reworked in washed silk. In addition, Hilfiger brought back his signature sailing jackets in bright yellow and red hues, the latter a standout from the collection in a mix of suede, leather and breathable, technical waterproof materials.
Polos shifted fluidly between shrunken and oversized cuts, complete with micro-embroidered Tommy crests and popped collars. Tailored chinos were reimagined as high-cut hot shorts in bold colors, alongside denim-inspired options with twisted seams. The Tommy Flag was faded and washed across suede, silk-cashmere garments and voluminous totes. Looks were made whole by ’90s-inspired two-tone skate sneakers, boat shoes, leather pool slides and classic penny loafers.
“We still have a very youthful customer, and we want to be able to show them that we understand their needs,” Hilfiger said. “Their needs are changing because they love oversized, they love relaxed, but they still want some sort of traditional vibe.”
The designer even offered up a version of the famous hangman campaign from 1985 — a Times Square billboard touting the four great American designers of the time: Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Perry Ellis and the newbie, Tommy Hilfiger — on a long silk dress. Accessories were also given an update with enormously sized totes, bucket hats in a wide range of patterns including patchworks and tartans and a reissued skater sneaker from the ‘90s.
Gigi Hadid, a longtime friend and collaborator of the brand who also starred in its fall campaign alongside Travis Kelce, opened the show in a classic beige blazer, silk striped shirt and oversized, baggy red trousers. Romeo Beckham, clad in a signature tartan crop jacket with a button-down, graphic knit tie and street Bermuda shorts, closed the show before Hilfiger’s surprise performer Slayyyter emerged and performed two of her most popular hits to a live band while the crowd, including Kate Moss, Camila Cabello, and newlyweds Karl Anthony Towns and Jordyn Woods, cheered on. Talk about a fun show!
“We really think fashion shows should be experiential because fashiontainment to me is everything. It’s fashion and Hollywood. It’s fashion and music. It’s fashion and sports. It’s fashion and art, and that’s where I come up with FAMES: fashion, art, music, entertainment and sports,” Hilfiger said of his megawatt shows, designed to not only display his latest designs, but provide “memorable, fun, unusual and exciting” experiences.
As Hypebae reports, for Hilfiger, the venue is never an afterthought, and The Plaza provided a deeply personal backdrop. Having spent over a decade residing at the historic location, the designer tapped into its constant stream of energy, heritage and eclectic guests as direct inspiration for the season. Modernizing classic American prep against gold-leaf archways and classic architecture, the setting served as a playground where timeless Tommy Hilfiger signatures were remixed for today’s culture as the models walked through the revolving doors.
“I lived at the Plaza for 10 years and I still feel that it’s my home,” Hilfiger said. “I wanted to invite people into an iconic New York experience. So, what better place than the Plaza?” He said his memories of his time at the legendary spot are “more about looking out at Central Park in the fall — if you imagine the seasons changing, it might be one of the best locations in New York, it’s so central. And Eloise!”
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Photo Credit: Ovidiu Hrubaru / Shutterstock.com
