The Spring/Summer 2020 season may be the first inkling that men want to dress like adults once again—or at least have the option. In a webinar, Michael Fisher, vice president and creative director, menswear for Fashion Snoops, shared some key menswear stories buyers can expected to see for Spring/Summer 2020 and the macro trends that are driving each. And many of the trends, Fisher noted, are already being validated by street style and confirmed at the latest round of men’s fashion week shows in New York, London, Paris and Milan. “I am confident that you will see all of these [trends] on the floor at all of the shows coming up,” he said. Top on his list? Modern Utility, a.k.a. Operandi.
Fashion is at a technological crossroads. From Puma teaming with MIT to develop insoles that measure athletic performance using bacteria from the wearer, to shoes that actually breathe, Fisher said there’s a surge of companies utilizing technology in new and interesting ways to offer “future solutions.” This focus on innovation is coupled with a renewed interest in ancient civilizations and a new wave of inventors and artists that Fisher likened to a modern-day Leonardo da Vinci or Indiana Jones character.
In Operandi, this translates into fashion that offers utility, front and center. “It’s bold, it’s exaggerated and I think it’s a really great complement to this kind of modern day creative who really is appreciating the past and the future in very equal ways,” Fisher said. Influences from sci-fi and steampunk add a fantastical element, resulting in “rugged” and “time honored” ways to use uniforms for men, he added. Prints and graphics have an ancient artisanal influence, too. Topography, geometry and checks and plaids with a natural timeworn effect are mixed with tie-dyes. Meanwhile, refined surfaces, smart fabrics and tailored shapes with outdoor styling update the mood.
The trend includes the utility parka with asymmetrically placed pockets and minimalist suits with stretch that can be packed or worn day-to-night. Here, Fisher urged directional buyers to consider convertible silhouettes. Linen-silk blend sweaters with rolled necklines, zip front camp shirts and minimal cargos in technical materials are key items. “It’s not all about the pocket,” he said. “It is there but it’s definitely a more streamlined approach.” Major designers showing off this trend in their Spring/Summer 2020 Menswear Collections were Prada, Fendi, Louis Vuitton, Carhartt WIP, and Nanushka.
For denim, Fisher named the excavator jean with inside-out or pieced construction, denim sport coats with “inky blue resin rinse,” double stone wash jeans and the engineer jacket as must-haves. “Everyone’s been seeing the chore jacket start to emerge as a key item for the season,” he said. “This is another great way to do that in a really rugged fabric.” Accessories span nerdy rounded glasses, to token necklaces and bracelets with antique finishes and fitted structured canvas cap. The look, Fisher said, comes together with sporty nylon sandals, canvas lo-top sneakers with gum rubber soles and bags like oversized paper totes with crinkled surfaces, mesh neck pouches and convertible backpacks. “Giving him items that can go for many different occasions is key,” Fisher noted.
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