While most of the American fashion industry retreated into the digital realm over the past 18 months, Christian Siriano remained loyal to the IRL fashion show format, first carting editors out to his home in Connecticut for a socially-distanced show in September 2020 and then an off-calendar return to the city in March 2021.
Surely, that had much to do with the fact that Siriano doesn’t exactly make garments intended for 2D consumption. His bread-and-butter are gowns that sing on a red carpet or pop in a music video, clothes that need context to breathe and thrive. A short film or a simplistic lookbook aren’t quite going to cut it. He never even abandoned his love of over-the-top glamour in the midst of the Covid-19 crisis, showing frothy gowns and “Vote”-emblazoned suit sets through it all.
“He’s obviously one of the best, he’s everything,” said Lil’ Kim, wearing a red ruffle puff ball of a minidress to the designer’s show, which almost felt like the before times thanks to a seamless proof of vaccine system at the door and some serious front row wattage. As the first New York designer to step up to make masks during the early days of the pandemic, Siriano is one of the good guys, who always draws a crowd of well-wishers, this season including Katie Holmes, Busy Philipps, Kristin Chenoweth, Alicia Silverstone and Aquaria.
“Things just seemed to fall into place,” he said backstage, explaining how he’s always wanted Lil’ Kim to attend one of his shows. He’s also always wanted to have Marina from Marina and the Diamonds at the mic, and that fell into place, too. Dripping in fringe, Marina Lambrini Diamandis belted out ballads that brought even more heart to Gotham Hall.
On the runway, Siriano went all-in with celebratory looks, from a white satin draped gown edged in eyelash fringe to a resort-ready black sheer lace tunic top and flared pants set, to an enormous neon green tulle ball skirt topped with a cheeky black marabou string bikini, all inspired by photos of his Italian grandma on holiday in Positano in the ’60s and ’70s.
Unapologetic glamour and fashion fantasy are Siriano’s brand. If that is a bit much for some, sunny asymmetrical suiting and slinky jersey dresses with triangle cutouts had a sleek soigné, were well executed and looked great on all sizes.
While reflecting on the legacy of American fashion, Siriano’s contributions to inclusion should not be overlooked. “We had about eight to 10 curvy women, but opening and closing the show with [model] Precious Lee was important because I wanted people to see you can have the whole world. In the fittings, she said, ‘Give me fashion. I don’t want to cover my body.’” Lee’s voluptuousness in a beach-stripe vinyl corset top and ball skirt proved that the new bodycon is body confidence.
Siriano also revealed some big news via a runway finale of denim-clad models: He’s been named the new designer for Gloria Vanderbilt. The heiress (great-great-granddaughter of Cornelius Vanderbilt, and the mother of CNN’s Anderson Cooper) launched her jeans empire in 1977, and was among the first to include plus sizes in her aspirational designer range.
“Gloria was all about size before others were doing it. I thought it was important to give an homage,” said Siriano, whose first collection for the brand debuting in early spring will include denim jackets and jeans, as well as separates.
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