The Spring/Summer 2020 season may be the first inkling that men want to dress like adults once again—or at least have the option. In a webinar, Michael Fisher, vice president and creative director, menswear for Fashion Snoops, shared some key menswear stories buyers can expected to see for Spring/Summer 2020 and the macro trends that are driving each. And many of the trends, Fisher noted, are already being validated by street style and confirmed at the latest round of men’s fashion week shows in New York, London, Paris and Milan. “I am confident that you will see all of these [trends] on the floor at all of the shows coming up,” he said. One of his top four picks was Totally 80’s.
“There’s no doubt that there is a huge ’80s revival happening right now,” Fisher said. The rise of Gucci is just one example of how the excess of the ’80s fits right into today’s pop culture. However, this type of decadence is rising during a time when young consumers desire authentic and unfiltered imagery. “It’s a backlash against all things fake and filtered or Instagram-worthy,” Fisher added.
And cities are where this movement is being played out. After several seasons of “wholesome styling” inspired by suburbia, Fisher said men’s fashion is moved by the energy of cities. In Great City, Fashion Snoops aims to identify what’s aspirational to men in 2020 and what will allow the consumer to be “expressive in his skin” in a city full of experiences and excitement, Fisher explained.
This consumer, he added, has “maximum urbane energy” and is exploring downtown art galleries and enjoying nightlife. Therefore, he also has to look good. Old school Armani serves as a source of inspiration for the type tailoring that Fisher sees coming back into style. Key items include classic cotton gabardine trench coats with an iridescent finish and the “club suit,” a modern take on the power suit with higher button stance and higher waist and fun fashion prints and colors.
And dress pants in traditional menswear patterns become baggier, Fisher said, with details like paper bag waists and asymmetric waist details for the younger market. “I know it’s taken many, many years to get your customers over to a slimmer suit, and that’s fine,” he said. “That’s not going anywhere, but if you’re a retailer that focuses on a younger guy, he’s definitely looking for a pant that is a little looser and more fun in its fit.”
Bold looks are in store for denim. Moto/trucker jacket hybrids are overdyed and finished with an acid wash effect, Fisher described. Dispersed bleaching is used as an alternative to tie-dye for jean jackets. Pleated jeans with patch pockets offer volume, while acid wash jeans give nostalgic vibes, especially on slight boot cut fits or jeans with a fold-over waistband.
Accessories are essential for adding luxury touches to this trend story. Loafers are adorned with metal bands, sneaker boots are elevated with exotic-inspired skins and Chelsea boots are refreshed with aggressive square toes. And while neckwear has slowed, Fisher said he sees interest in bold polka dot ties once again, or “something that you would see in American Psycho.”
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