Ever since Singapore separated from Malaysia and declared independence in 1965, the two neighbors have argued over who has stronger claims to aspects of their shared heritage. One major example of this rivalry is, “who does street food best,” which has only been exascerbated by Singapore’s government-organized petition to the United Nations Education Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) to recognize the their street vendors, commonly referred to as “hawkers,” as part of the world’s “intangible cultural heritage.” If the bid succeeds, it will be permanently inscribed on UNESCO’s intangible heritage registry, created in 2003. The petition already has 38,000 signatures and counting.
But Malaysia, specifically foodies, chefs and social media users have taken umbrage to Singapore’s claim, suggesting, for example, that Singapore’s hawker stalls are too sanitized to truly compete with their grittier, allegedly tastier Malaysian counterparts. Foong Li Mei, Malaysian native and co-author of “The Food That Makes Us,” says that street food “has always been one of the few areas that Malaysians can confidently say they do better than their richer, cleaner and more efficient neighbor.” She adds, “This could be why Singapore’s petition for Unesco recognition of its hawker culture offends some Malaysians — it sounds as if Singapore is saying that their hawker food is the original, and best.”
In response to the Malaysian uproar, well, Singapore dug in its heels. Prime Minister Lee, backed by the National Heritage Board, The National Environment Agency and the Federation of Merchants’ Associations, Singapore, is moving forward with plans to submit the petition to UNESCO in March, stating, “I hope everyone will strongly support this nomination, so that our hawker culture can stand proudly on the world stage.” But then Lee seemingly contradicted himself, stating that the petition is “not intended to establish the origins or ownership” of hawker culture.” Really?
Based on what we’ve seen so far, Malaysia isn’t going to just roll over on this hawker show down, so keep a watch on what happens with Singapore’s petition to UNESCO this spring.
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